Re-Usable Hydraulic Hose Fitting Tutorial - TractorByNet

I have two upcoming projects that will require a lot of custom length hoses, so I though it would be a good time to give these a fair trial. I have always had hoses made locally at a fair price and in a timely manner, but I was always curious about these.

All parts (hoses and Fittings) where purchased from Discount Hydraulic Hose. I only needed the 1/4" hose and fittings for this project, but all the sizes are assemble the same way.

This is 30' of 1/4" SAE 100R2AT 2-Wire psi hydraulic hose


Here are two types of fittings, 1/4" NPT on the left, and a -6 JIC on the right.


Better view. 1/4" NPT on the left and -6 JIC on the right.



Here they are with the inner stems removed from the outside collar.


A die grinder with a cutoff wheel makes easy work of cutting the hose cleanly.


Here is the cut hose, a straight clean cut is important.


The outside collar is threaded onto the hose. These are left-hand threads.


Turn it till the inside bottoms out on the hose.


Now, mark the hose/collar, and back off the collar 1/2 turn or so to create a gap inside the fitting for the hose to expand into. This is a VERY IMPORTANT step. Failure to do this will cause the stem to break (Don't ask how I know!)


Hold the collar in a vise, lube the stem and inside the hose with some hydraulic oil and start turning the stem in. This was the hardest part-pushing and turning till the threads engaged. If it starts to get real tight, remove the stem, re-lube and try again.


Here is the completed fitting. The stem should NOT be tightened to the collar-but rather a small gap left.


After assembling the hose, be sure to flush it with a solvent (like mineral spirits) and compressed air to clean it out. You don't want the crap from cutting the hose in your hydraulic system.

So, that is it. I hope this will help someone in the future...

Great tutorial I appreciate the thread. I have wondered about how well these work. Have you used them before? I thought they would be a better option overall more economical overall and the ability to use and all. I thought maybe they may have a problem with leaking.

This will be my first time using them, but a few others here have and reported great results. There has just never been a dedicated post on how to install them so I thought I would do it.

With how tight they go together, I can't imagine them leaking.

Kenny,

Do you think this is a one time use of the screw on fittings, or can you screw the fitting back into the same hose. Would you have to use a fresh piece of hose every time you made up one of these units?

The fitting itself is definitely reusable...I would guess they would want it screwed into fresh hose each time rather than where one was already but not 100% sure, there is very little info available about these.

So I have what seems like a stupid question. I'm trying to run a "Y" adapter from my dust collection to my cabinet saw and planer with blast gates on each line. Problem is, the "Y" adapter and blast gates are the same size as the dust ports on my dust collector and tools. I'm in a one car garage so I will be using flexible hose for these very short runs. Is there an "official" way to connect these parts? I'd really like to avoid super short pieces of hose going from the DC to the "Y" piece, then more short pieces hose from the "Y" to the blast gates but I haven't found anything on the Internets explaining this. What am I missing?

What type of 4" fittings are you using? Metal, PVC, or black ABS?

Assuming black ABS (from Woodcraft, Rockler, etc.), I have a blast gate with one side labelled "QUICK DISCONNECT". The ID of this side of the fitting accepts the elbow and Y fittings directly. The other side is taper and accepts the threaded x tapered fitting on the end of the hose.

Here is a link to the hose fitting.
http://www.woodcraft.com/product/140...n-fitting.aspx

A link to the blast gate.
http://www.ptreeusa.com/blastgates.htm (first on the page, item 398)

I've been looking at the Peachtree WW site to which Anthony linked and might have a whole better solution. If I start with the rubber union fitting to connect my DC to the Y coupler, then the two blast gates to the Y (the same one in Anthony's post), and finally the blast gates to hoses to the machines. That's less money and I don't have to go Frankenstein more pieces to get it to work. Does that seem like it will work?

Work, work well enough, and work right are three different categories.

The first two are pretty close, the third is much further down the line. I have a 1HP DC with a 4" inlet and the 4" pipe like you have, Jonathan. It is definitely somewhere in the work well enough category. 4" ducting and ports will never work right. The physics won't allow it.

My dust collection should be better. I have an Oneida C950 with a 2HP motor and 13" impeller still to be setup. With + CFM in 6" duct, that should get me closer to working right, .

I use 4 and 6" S&D pipe plus a variety of gates and fittings and hoses. I made adapters for all of mine that didn't slide together. It was very simple.

What I did was cut an inch or two length of S&D pipe which was usually too big a diameter to slide into the fitting(s). I laid this flat on the bandsaw table and cut a little slice out of the pipe. The slice removed reduced the diameter just enough so the pipe fit exactly when squeezed and inserted into the fitting. Then I either glued or, more often, used sheet metal screws to hold things together. The screws let me take it apart if needed.

Where I wanted strength I did this twice and glued a smaller one into a larger one or vice-versa to make a strong ring.

Note that you can also heat S&D pipe with a heat gun or torch and you can stretch or shrink the diameter significantly. I believe Pentz describes this method in his documents.

JKJ

I also form plumbing pipe and fittings with a heat gun. Works well. I also made my own blast gates which worked MUCH better than the plastic ones. The plastic ones liked to clog with sawdust and become immovable. Mine are just sliders of plywood scraps in a plywood scrap frame with half a pipe union on each side to mate to the pipe. You can make a bunch for almost nothing. You can also make smaller diameter pipe by splitting short sections and taking a piece out and then gluing it back together with plumbing glue. I got frustrated with the quality and the price of the DC fittings and just made what I needed out of stuff on the plumbing aisle of the home center.