Metal Roofing Buyer's Guide: From Deck to Finish E-Book

Are you looking to purchase a new roof or want to learn more about the best material to install on your home or business? Or, are you an architect or contractor searching for information to provide to your customers to educate them or assist during the buying process?

You will get efficient and thoughtful service from SANGOBUILD.

Introducing the brand new Metal Roofing Buyer's Guide: From Deck to Finish e-book.

This e-book is packed with valuable information from industry experts and is designed to:

•   Educate you on all of the different types and choices for metal roofing
•   Provide honest comparisons between metal roofing and other roofing materials
•   Discuss commonly asked questions from prospective buyers
•   Assist you with choosing and buying the best metal roof for you and your needs

When a roof is destroyed by fire, windstorm, hail, or other severe weather, there’s no denying it needs to be fixed. But often, the signal that your roof needs repair or replacement is nothing more than a seemingly innocent ceiling stain or drip. Caught early, a small leak can be fairly inexpensive to fix; if ignored, it may result in significant damage to your home.

Sometimes, if you have an unfinished attic and can locate the water trickle along a rafter or stud, you can find the leak’s source yourself. However, it’s best to have an experienced roofer inspect and handle the repairs. We don’t recommend that homeowners navigate steep ladders and pitched roofs themselves.

The remedy may be as simple as filling in a crack with caulk, replacing a few shingles, or installing some flashing (a waterproof membrane or metal sheet that redirects water). Most leaks can be stopped if they’re limited to a few spots. But if you’re experiencing recurring leaks and your roof is out of warranty, a new roof is in order. Even without obvious signs of damage, it’s wise to replace an out-of-warranty roof that’s more than 20 years old.

Keep in mind that even if your roof needs replacing, you may be able to replace only one side of it rather than the entire surface; that’s something to discuss with a contractor. If new shingles can be laid on top of the old ones, you’ll save money over having the old shingles torn off and starting from scratch. However, you or the contractor should check with your municipality to see what’s permitted; if two layers are already installed, you might not be allowed to add another.

Asphalt shingles remain far and away the most popular choice for homes because they’re relatively inexpensive and easy to install. 

In CR’s roofing tests, we’ve found that some asphalt shingles perform better overall than others that cost more. And some provide a beautifully layered look or come in a huge array of colors. But depending on your house and your budget, many other roofing types may work as well. 

To help you compare, we’ve included a price range for each of the options below per square, or 100-square-foot area, that manufacturers use when pricing shingles.

Once you’ve decided on a roofing type, check the manufacturer’s website for contractor recommendations. A manufacturer’s credentialed contractors, in theory, have more training in installing the product. Your homeowners insurance company may also have a network of contractors. Look for contractors who have been around at least five years and have a good local reputation.

With any roofer, get local references and check for local and state licenses, proof of bonding, a Better Business Bureau rating, and active certificates of insurance—for liability and workers’ compensation.

Request bids from at least three pros. Roof replacement costs can vary widely, even when the exact same shingles will be installed. For asphalt shingles, prices range from about $75 to $105 per square for basic three-tab shingles, and up to $350 per square for multilayered architectural shingles. The cost of the shingles themselves should be similar no matter who installs them, but costs for labor and other materials are what you have to look out for when comparing bids.

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Ask for a breakdown of all the costs involved: one price for the shingles, one for the labor of removing the old ones and installing the new ones, and a contingency budget that outlines the costs if your roofer discovers that sheathing or other materials need to be replaced.

Some installers offer workmanship warranties separate and apart from a shingle manufacturer’s. Be sure to ask for one in writing. Among the dozens of contractor websites from across the country that we reviewed, only a few showed explicit warranties. The promises we found covered between one and 50 years, though experts told us most roof problems happen in the first couple of years.

Even though replacing a roof isn’t a do-it-yourself job, estimating the cost of the shingles themselves can be helpful when you’re comparing bids from roofers.

Manufacturers price roofing by the square, or 100-square-foot area, and that’s how we price each option in our ratings. To estimate how much roofing you’ll need, multiply the overall length and width of each roof section in feet, add the numbers for the sections together, and add 10 percent to allow for waste. Then divide by 100 to determine how many squares you’ll need. In addition to buying extra to account for waste, it’s a good idea to keep an additional bundle on hand for minor repairs. That way, you’re covered if the manufacturer stops making those shingles.

For example, for a one-story, 2,300-square-foot house with a medium-pitched roof, you’ll want to figure on about 30 squares to cover 3,000 square feet total—that should give you enough for waste and extra shingles for future repairs.

While manufacturers price their product by the square, roofing is generally packaged and sold in bundles. Generally, you’ll need three to five bundles of shingles to cover one square of your roof—the exact number of bundles required depends on the type of shingle you are buying; the heavier the shingle, the less you get per bundle. By law, each shingle bundle should state clearly how many square feet it covers so that you can calculate the number of bundles you need and budget accordingly.

Before giving you an estimate, a contractor should assess all components in and around your roof, including the drip edge and gutters that steer water runoff. In a complete roof repair or redo, you’ll typically need to replace the underlayment. That component, usually treated paper or synthetic sheets, serves as a weather barrier atop the sheathing or decking, which is the flat surface—typically made of oriented strand board (OSB) or plywood—that lies on the rafters. In a cold climate, a roofer may suggest applying an ice-dam protection membrane in some areas to guard against water seepage caused by ice buildup. Adding or updating the ridge vent and vented soffits can improve attic airflow and prevent harmful moisture buildup. Replacing or fixing flashing, the material around the chimney and where roofing planes meet, can prevent leaks; ask about alternatives to copper, which is durable and attractive but costly. 

Ideally, ask for a contract that locks in the job’s pricing. If the contractor requires you to abide by a temporary clause making you responsible for interim price increases, make sure you understand how much you’ll be responsible for. And if you need the roof done right away, ask the contractor which shingle colors and styles are available now, so you’ll face minimal wait time. If contractor doesn’t know, seek another roofer.

In your shingle shopping, you might be impressed by how many manufacturers offer a "lifetime protection" warranty. But in roofing parlance, a lifetime really isn’t a lifetime. It’s more like 10 years. That’s the period during which most manufacturers will pay the roof’s original owner in full to replace defective shingles under the baseline warranty. After that—and for the rest of the period you own your home—it’ll reimburse only for your shingles’ depreciated value.

Warranties involve a lot of fine print like that. For instance, to extend the full-replacement period, you have to either upgrade to a different shingle or buy more of the manufacturer’s components. A roofing warranty won’t pay if the shingle maker finds problems in your home’s ventilation. And manufacturers usually won’t cover damage from so-called acts of God, such as very high winds and hail. For that, you’ll have to put in a homeowners insurance claim or pay out of pocket.

Given all those gotchas, a warranty probably shouldn’t be your main focus in choosing a new roof. Rather, our testers recommend that you place your faith in a strong shingle and a reliable contractor. That said, see whether the warranty is transferable to the next owner. If you sell your home, a transferable roof warranty can be a perk to a potential buyer.

The addition of solar panels can also affect your warranty. So if you think you might add solar panels to your new roof, check the warranty of the shingle you’re considering to make sure a solar-panel installation won’t void it. You should also check for insurance coverage from the solar panel company.

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